Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate yra biologiškai fermentuotas augalinis ekstraktas, kuris gerina odos skaistumą ir drėkinimą. Jame naudojama mielių fermentacija, kad Job’s Tears sėklų maistinės medžiagos būtų suskaidytos į mažesnes, itin biologiškai prieinamas molekules, užtikrinančias geresnį įsiskverbimą į odą.
- INCI pavadinimas:
- Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate
- Cheminis / mokslinis pavadinimas:
- Ferment filtrate of Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seeds by the microorganism Saccharomyces
- Dažni sinonimai:
- Job’s Tears Ferment, Coix Seed Ferment Filtrate, Adlay Ferment
| Kategorija: | Aktyviosios medžiagos |
| Kilmė: | Botaninis/biotechnologinis |
| Komedogeniškumo reitingas: | 0 |
| Pagrindinės pramonės šakos: | Kosmetikos, asmens priežiūros |
| Tirpumas: | Tirpus vandenyje |
Savybės ir poveikis
| Brightening/Tone | |
| Drėgmės palaikymas | |
| Antioksidantas Protection | |
| Sudirginimo rizika: |
- Pagrindiniai privalumai:
- Slopina melanino sintezę, kad sumažintų hiperpigmentaciją ir suvienodintų odos atspalvį.
- Aprūpina būtinomis Amino Acids, kurios sustiprina natūralų odos drėgmės barjerą.
- Neutralizuoja laisvuosius radikalus, kad apsaugotų nuo aplinkos sukeliamo oksidacinio streso.
- Gerina odos tekstūrą, skatindamas lygesnį, labiau ištobulintą paviršių.
- Galimos rizikos:
- Itin maža dirginimo rizika, nors retais atvejais gali pasireikšti jautrumas fermentacijos šalutiniams produktams.
Biologinis poveikis ir kosmetinis profilis
Fermentation by Saccharomyces yeast transforms the complex polysaccharides and proteins of the Coix seed into low-molecular-weight metabolites. This biotechnological process increases the concentration of bioavailable Amino Acids, such as Alanine and Leucine, which are critical components of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). By replenishing these molecules, the filtrate ensures the stratum corneum remains hydrated and resilient.Clinical research into Coix seed derivatives suggests a potent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis. By modulating melanin production, this ferment filtrate effectively addresses post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sunspots. Unlike aggressive chemical exfoliants, it achieves a brightening effect through biological pathways rather than physical or chemical shedding of the skin cells.Anti-inflammatory properties further distinguish this ingredient. It suppresses certain pro-inflammatory cytokines, making it suitable for calming reactive or stressed skin. The presence of phenolic compounds and coixol provides robust protection against lipid peroxidation, ensuring that cellular structures remain intact when exposed to UV radiation or pollution.
Platesnės taikymo sritys ir kilmė
Job’s Tears (Coix lacryma-jobi) has a documented history in East Asian traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and detoxifying properties. In modern cosmetic science, the „ma-yuen” variety is specifically cultivated for its high nutrient density. The use of Saccharomyces—a genus of fungi that includes brewer’s yeast—allows chemists to extract these nutrients without the use of harsh chemical solvents, aligning with „green chemistry” standards.This ingredient is frequently utilized in „first essences” and watery toners. Its ability to act as a penetration enhancer allows subsequent steps in a skincare routine to work more effectively. Because it is lightweight and non-greasy, it serves as a primary active in formulations targeting oily and combination skin types that require hydration without heaviness.
Integravimas į rutiną
- Sinergija:
- Niacinamide: Sustiprina skaistinamąjį poveikį ir dar labiau sustiprina odos barjerą.
- Ascorbic Acid: Suteikia dvigubą antioksidacinę apsaugą ir pagreitina tamsių dėmių nykimą.
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Veikia kartu su fermento amino rūgštimis, kad sulaikytų giluminį drėkinimą.
- Panthenol: Sinergiškai ramina paraudimą ir atkuria pažeistą odą.
- Nesuderinamumas:
- Žinomų reikšmingų kontraindikacijų nėra; suderinamas su dauguma aktyviųjų ingredientų, įskaitant retinoidus ir rūgštis.
Klinikinis sutarimas ir saugumas
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and CosIng database recognize fermented botanical filtrates as safe for topical application in concentrations typically ranging from 1% to 100% (as a base). Dermatological assessments indicate it is non-sensitizing and non-phototoxic. While it contains yeast byproducts, it does not typically exacerbate fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis), as the filtration process removes the live cultures, leaving only the nutrient-rich supernatant.
Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, it is considered highly tolerable. Its natural anti-inflammatory properties often help to soothe irritation rather than cause it.
How does it differ from regular Coix seed extract?
The fermentation process breaks down the seed’s molecules into smaller sizes. This allows for deeper penetration and a higher concentration of bioactive nutrients compared to standard aqueous extracts.
Can it be used daily?
This ingredient is safe for twice-daily use. It does not increase sun sensitivity and can be used in both morning and evening routines.